Our critic has a bone to pick with Bay Area restaurants’ favorite new indulgence

Uproariously rich bone marrow is back at Bay Area restaurants.

Equal Parts, a bar in North Beach with a “take me back to Tulum” vibe, serves beef bones split and roasted with a glinting stripe of marrow down the middle, accompanied by a toast and a vinegary herb salad. Ferry Building flagship Arquet pairs bone marrow with nori-infused buns and jam; perpetually crowded English pub Dingles in Hayes Valley swaps out toast for a flaky Guinness pie. As an add-on, for $10, Amado in Burlingame will throw it on an Australian Wagyu skirt steak taco, while Hungry Cow, the all-you-can-eat Korean barbecue joint in Fremont, allots a bone per person with its premium option.

Deep in my own marrow, I’m burned out on it…

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