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JOPPA, Texas — Chef Amber Williams watched as two dozen youngsters pulled carrots, cabbage and Brussels sprouts from cold soil at Joppy Momma’s Farm, bundled up against 25-degree chill as they filled plastic crates with freshly picked produce . Before long they were all snacking on Williams’ veggie-filled cabbage wraps, enjoying the fruit of the land.

Founded in 1872 by emancipated slave Henry Hines, Joppa (pronounced “Joppy”) is among the last freedmen towns in Texas, a barren, low-income community of about 2,000 people 15 minutes south of downtown Dallas. Joppy Momma’s Farm launched in 2021, aiming to change Joppa’s status as a federally declared food desert , with the nearest supermarket miles away .

As her crew prepared the mix of chickpeas, peppers and hearts of palm that would provide the cabbage wrap filling, Williams addressed the kids and their families, who were visiting the farm through their involvement with a local chapter of youth leadership organization Jack and Jill of America.

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