During times of frigid weather, I used to frequent Obelisco, a homey Mexican restaurant by the Fruitvale BART station. I would defrost my soul with bowls of pozole verde, which had toothsome hominy and a tangy broth, or albondigas, a meatball and vegetable stew. It was the closest thing I could get to my mom’s cooking.
After 17 years, Obelisco closed in 2024. But last August, it reopened in Oakland’s Lakeshore neighborhood, with a full-service model and a completely new look. Much of the interior was inherited from the previous tenant, Shakewell, such as the thin wood paneling that runs across the ceiling, petal-like light fixtures and a backlit bar with colorful wallpaper. Obelisco added new art to the dining room: a painting of a woman wearing a flower crown and a giant framed bow made from a rebozo, a Mexican shawl. But food remains the highlight, thanks to Leticia Chávez, a specialist for comida casera (home-style cooking).
On a chilly night, I found great relief in her flautas, three crunchy dynamite sticks stuffed with potato, then garnished with lettuce, sour cream and tomato sauce. The latter was mellow in spice and warm in temperature, exuding rich savoriness and cozy affection. For extra heat, ask for habanero salsa…