Additional Coverage:
Before crossing the border bridge between the United States and Mexico, I was met with a sobering warning.
Local journalist Kevin Palomino advised me to heed safety guidance issued by Mexican authorities as I prepared to travel from El Paso to Ciudad Juarez. The border crossing itself was guarded by coils of razor wire and steel barriers beneath the iconic arch connecting the two countries. Border patrol agents, law enforcement officers, and customs officials kept a vigilant watch, their serious expressions underscored by the presence of heavy-duty vehicles.
Security concerns here are taken very seriously-and with good reason. Ciudad Juarez, once notoriously labeled “the murder capital of the world,” continues to rank as the 14th most dangerous city globally. While the extreme violence of the past decade has somewhat diminished, the city still grapples with cartel-related crime linked to drug trafficking across the border.
Upon entering Mexico, another cautionary sign stood out: travelers heading south for the FIFA World Cup who required assistance were advised to contact the U.S. Department of Homeland Security for support.
My journey aimed to embrace a unique tradition-crossing the border to witness the tournament’s opening match between Mexico and South Africa, a popular pilgrimage for many American fans. To blend in, I donned Mexican national team gear, picking up a replica jersey, a wide-brimmed hat, and a flag from one of the many fan shops near the border.
This choice quickly proved rewarding. Strangers on the street greeted me with enthusiastic shouts of “¡Viva México!”
A pickup truck adorned with a towering six-foot flag honked and waved a white jersey in solidarity. Even a border patrol officer, walking nearby with a sniffer dog, flashed the “rock on” hand gesture with a smile.
Despite El Paso’s strong Mexican cultural ties, the contrast between the two sides of the border was stark. Street vendors eagerly offered plastic World Cup-themed mugs, while a group of tattooed young men outside a barbershop voiced less welcoming remarks as I passed. With the match time and scorching temperatures, many locals opted to watch the game from home rather than in public spaces.
English was not widely spoken, but we found refuge in a lively Kentucky-style bar known for its oversized margaritas served in fishbowl-sized glasses. The atmosphere exploded with cheers as Mexico scored twice, first with an opening goal and then a strike from Raul Jimenez.
The match was just the beginning of a weekend celebration. As the final whistle blew, more fans in green and white jerseys filled the bar, their energy palpable.
Yet, stepping outside served as a stark reminder of the city’s dangers. A man was being frisked against a police van nearby, underscoring that despite the festive soccer spirit, Ciudad Juarez remains one of the world’s most challenging environments.