Additional Coverage:
- Movie Review: Anthony Bourdain biopic ‘Tony’ is just an early nibble at a culinary giant (apnews.com)
“Tony,” a new biopic exploring a formative summer in Anthony Bourdain’s early life, offers a glimpse into the making of a culinary icon-but ultimately leaves viewers wanting more. Directed and co-written by Matt Johnson, the film attempts to chronicle the transition of a young, inexperienced kitchen worker on Cape Cod in 1975 into the man who would one day revolutionize how we view food and culture. However, it struggles to capture the essence of Bourdain himself.
Dominic Sessa portrays the teenage Bourdain as a brooding outsider, his lanky frame and unruly hair reflecting a certain rebellious spirit. Yet, despite moments that could have revealed joy or passion, the character remains closed off and distant. Even a vividly recreated night of intense striped bass fishing-a pivotal memory Bourdain wrote about in his memoir “Kitchen Confidential”-fails to evoke a sense of wonder or transformation on screen.
The film draws heavily on this brief, but significant period in Provincetown, Massachusetts, which Bourdain revisited in various TV episodes and writings. While it’s an important chapter in his life, “Tony” leans too heavily on it without fully exploring the broader journey. Notably absent is the portrayal of Bourdain’s heroin use, a critical aspect of his youth that shaped his later struggles and triumphs.
Antonio Banderas appears as a spiritual and strict culinary mentor, yet the character feels somewhat disconnected-a figure who simultaneously presides over a toxic, discriminatory kitchen culture. The mentor-mentee dynamic culminates in Bourdain’s introduction of lobster thermidor to the menu, a classic trope signaling growth that feels contrived rather than earned.
What’s missing is the spark that made Bourdain an evangelist for cuisine’s deeper power-the ability to heal, celebrate, and connect. Instead, “Tony” offers a muted portrayal, with only a few genuine moments of warmth, such as the flirtatious use of shucked oysters or cameos by friends like chef Eric Ripert. Emilia Jones and Leo Woodall provide strong supporting performances, particularly as Bourdain’s love interest and confidant.
Choosing to focus on a snapshot of a cultural icon’s life rather than a full biography is a smart, modern approach. Unfortunately, “Tony” doesn’t quite succeed in delivering a compelling origin story. The film’s pacing and character development leave the audience with a sense that the essence of Bourdain-the voice and passion that made him unforgettable-is still just out of reach.
“Tony” is set to open in select theaters on August 7, with wider release on August 21. Rated R for language, drug use, and sexual content, it runs 106 minutes. Ultimately, it earns two stars out of four-a respectful but restrained tribute to a complex figure whose true story remains more captivating than this portrayal.