Additional Coverage:
- I live in India and have traveled all over the country — but there’s just one city I’d revisit again and again (businessinsider.com)
A Seasoned Traveler’s Unexpected Love Affair with Varanasi
As a seasoned traveler who’s crisscrossed India, from the bustling streets of Mumbai to the serene beaches of Goa, I’ve always had a long list of destinations. Yet, Varanasi, a city steeped in history and spirituality, remained stubbornly unchecked – until last summer.
I expected a brief visit, a quick tick on my bucket list. What I experienced instead was an unexpected and profound connection with this ancient city.
Varanasi is known as one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. While I wasn’t on a spiritual quest, the city captivated me from the moment I arrived.
The narrow, winding lanes, a maze of scooters, cows, and the occasional leaping monkey, led me to the Ganges. The river’s vastness and stillness contrasted sharply with the vibrant energy surrounding it, creating a sense of peace I hadn’t anticipated.
Even the cremation ghats, particularly Manikarnika, held a surprising lack of unease. Witnessing the cremation ceremonies alongside everyday life – children playing, vendors selling chai – offered a unique perspective on the cycle of life and death. It was a deeply human experience, woven into the fabric of the city.
The nightly Ganga Aarti ceremony at Dashashwamedh Ghat was a spectacle of sight and sound. Priests in saffron robes, waving lamps and incense, created a mesmerizing performance against the backdrop of chanting and clanging cymbals. The diverse crowd, a mix of pilgrims, locals, and tourists, added another layer of depth to the already powerful ritual.
Beyond the spiritual aspects, Varanasi proved to be a foodie’s paradise. From the legendary Deena Chaat Bhandar, where I savored tamatar and palak patta chaat, to the iconic Ram Bhandar, known for its aloo kachori and jalebis, the street food scene was unforgettable. And no trip would be complete without a saffron lassi from Blue Lassi and a roadside paan.
A short trip to Sarnath, the site of Buddha’s first sermon, provided a glimpse into another facet of the region’s rich history. Visiting the Wat Thai temple and its towering Buddha statue, and later observing a sari weaver at the Sarnath Art Gallery, offered a deeper appreciation for the artistry and craftsmanship of the region. The weaver’s words, “Banaras is known for two things — paan and saris,” resonated with the city’s unique identity.
Varanasi was more than just a destination; it was an immersion into a world of vibrant contrasts – fire and water, ritual and routine, life and death. It was a city that surprised me, moved me, and ultimately, left a lasting impression. While my initial intention was simply to check it off my list, I now find myself eagerly anticipating my return.