Editor’s Note: After 32 years, Ke‘eaumoku Street’s most famous Korean eatery announced that its last day will be March 7. Sorabol thrived through decades of 24/7 service, famed for signature dishes like kalbi chim, steamed butterfish and soondae blood sausages and frequented by late-night clubbers, families, local clubs and seemingly everyone else. With a new condo development coming to Ke‘eaumoku, the restaurant moved from its prominent corner into the Pagoda Hotel two years ago, just down the block. Now, owner Lisa Lee is retiring. Here’s a tribute from a longtime customer.
Sorabol was always in my late-night rotation. In its 24-hour heyday, the Korean restaurant was a spot that everyone I knew, drunk or sober, found solace in at least once. For me, it was much more than that. Along with late-night diners and fast-food drive-thrus, Sorabol was an essential part of my life after weekend car cruises, clubbing or long nights when I finished work at 2 a.m. Life moves on, the pandemic came, and the new Sorabol inside the Pagoda Hotel now closes at 10 p.m. The place holds all kinds of memories—most good, some questionable—but there has never been a question about the food.
Although atypical, I have always found comfort in the kongbiji jjigae (콩비지 찌개), or ground soybean stew. The overly textured stew can be intimidating, but it is the most simple, non-spicy and underrated heartiness. It never needs rice and pairs well with every banchan.
Don’t get me wrong, soondubu jjigae (순두부찌개), soft tofu stew, or kim chee jjigae (김치찌개) are always lifesavers. Spicy and still boiling at the table, the steam was like smoke signals that a cure for my hangover was on its way. Kalbi jjim (갈비찜), the braised short ribs, are always a fan favorite with flavorful, tender marinated meat waiting to be demolished—with rice, of course!
As years went by, we started going for early morning breakfasts, especially on New Year’s morning. The parking lot would fill by 7:30, and by 8 a.m., the restaurant was jam-packed with a line forming out the door. Even this year, Sorabol was one of the few Korean restaurants in Honolulu offering New Year’s tteokguk (떡국), Korean rice cake soup, which traditionally should be your first meal of the year. It’s always complimentary with a purchase of at least one dish…