There are meals that fill you up and meals that actually change something, and the second kind is rarer than it should be.
I found one in Los Angeles at a place I almost drove past, and it involved chicken and waffles so good that I sat in the parking lot afterward just processing what had happened.
California has restaurants competing loudly for your attention on every corner, which makes the ones that simply cook well and trust you to notice feel genuinely refreshing when you find them…