I’ve had a beer stein or two – even a couple of boots – at Madison’s Essen Haus, one of the few authentic German restaurants in Madison. But when the City Council last week gave the OK to the developer who wants to replace it with an apartment building and hotel in the 500 block of East Wilson Street, it wasn’t the demise of this fine purveyor of everything from great schnitzels to German sausages that set my nostalgic juices flowing.