American barbecue is rooted in the South, in the culture of Black Americans who learned the art through practice, dedication and intuition. Although Milwaukee doesn’t have a specific BBQ style, we have something that still stands tall – a blending of traditions that celebrate the mysterious, transformative power of smoke.
The OG: Ashley’s Bar-B-Que
1501 W. CENTER ST. | 8718 W. LISBON AVE.
Ashley’s has an old-school barbecue pit, where chicken and cuts of pork and beef are smoked over hickory wood and charcoal. Thomas Ashley Jr. went from BBQ hobbyist to restaurant owner in 1960, using $350 he had borrowed from friends to open Ashley’s. His son Darnell runs the concept now and has expanded the Ashley’s footprint a few times in the past 14 years, pushing through losses that have included devastating restaurant fires. While the Center Street location is geared strictly to takeout (and is cash only), there’s the sit-down Ashley’s Que Too on the West Side with a more expansive menu and soul food on Sundays. Darnell also took over the local institution next door to Que Too, Champion Chicken, where he put in a bar and carries on the tradition of broasted chicken.
Darnell combines his dad’s legacy and what he’s learned over the years to develop the Ashley’s style – dry and wet rubs on meats that are also served sauced (tangy and sweet). The sliced shoulder dinner with white bread is what you want to order, or the slab of pork ribs – these are the fall-off-the-bone kind but still have a bit of chew. For a side, make it creamy – coleslaw or potato salad. $14-$33.
7412 W. GREENFIELD AVE…