West Tennessee Whole-Hog BBQ – The Vanishing Art
West Tennessee’s rich tradition of whole-hog barbecue should be on every food lover’s radar. Renowned pitmaster Pat Martin is at the helm of this dying art, and his new cookbook, “Life of Fire,” offers insight into what he refers to as an “endangered species of regional barbecue”. According to some estimates, there are very few traditional joints left, so this style of BBQ really is in danger of extinction.
West Tennessee’s style of whole-hog BBQ used to be part of daily life for those living in rural, small communities in the region. Because pigs were prominent in the area (not to mention cheaper to take care of than cows), this style of barbecue could feed a lot of people for little to no money at all. Today, the Tennessee whole hog sandwich is considered a vanishing art, with Pat Martin, founder of Martin’s Bar-B-Que Joint, among a handful of chefs keeping it alive. At Martin’s, which has several locations in Tennessee and beyond, the meat is served with a vinegar-based sauce.
Kentucky Mutton Barbecue – The Forgotten Specialty
When most people think of barbecue, mutton doesn’t come to mind – but it should. The one type of meat Owensboro is perhaps most well-known for – mutton (a sheep over a year old) – dates back to the 1800s. We are the last pocket in America where this tradition survives, and that’s not an exaggeration. Mutton is our most distinctive claim to barbecue fame, with relatively few establishments still serving it. The “Mutton Tree” is concentrated in western Kentucky, with Christian County and Hopkins County forming the trunk of the tree, branching out into Union, Henderson, and Daviess counties for the upper foliage. Owensboro is mutton central, with all four barbecue restaurants serving it.
The cooking method is what transforms tough sheep meat into something magical. Using hickory wood and an acidic basting combination of water, vinegar, salt and peppers that breaks down the meat, and then slow cooking, helps turn the meat into the tender meal diners enjoy. Old Hickory Bar-B-Q owner John Foreman said that it is the combination of the hickory and the length of time it is cooked – 22 hours for their mutton – along with what they do after that makes it special. If you want to visit Owensboro to eat some, you might want to do that sooner than later. Local tastes are increasingly turning toward the brisket and pork dishes more commonly known throughout the rest of the South. But for the time being, mutton barbecue is still available, every bit as much a Kentucky tradition as bourbon and bluegrass.
Chicago-Style Barbecue – The Urban Innovation
You wouldn’t expect Chicago to have its own barbecue style, but this Midwestern city has quietly developed something pretty special. While Kansas City reigns as the supreme BBQ king of the Midwest U.S., Chicago is a city worth checking out for much more than its hot dogs and deep-dish pizza. Its BBQ tradition reflects The Windy City’s diversity and rich history of butchery and immigration. According to NPR, Chicago became a major meat-producing capital once its iconic livestock market, Union Stock Yard, opened to the public in 1865…