Ian McNulty: One of New Orleans’ top restaurants is this quietly stylish French Quarter brasserie

The one word that kept coming to mind was sumptuous.

We were seated at a corner table with scallop-backed, velvet banquettes forming a cove in the small dining room at MaMou.

We’d already been dazzled by a progression of first-course dishes, starting with the bread, a perfectly pretzeled bâtard loaf with smoked butter…

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