With the arrival of spring, New Orleanians embrace brunch as a cherished weekend reward. Across the city’s eateries, brunch is celebrated as an indulgent, leisurely affair—one where festive libations flow and laughter fills the air. Signature drinks like Champagne, Mimosas, milk punch, and Bloody Marys accompany decadent, flavorful foods, enjoyed by guests who dress smartly for the occasion.
As with many things that are a little bit naughty or extravagant—cocktails, Mardi Gras, jazz, and muffulettas—New Orleans claims the origins of brunch, if not the term itself. The word “brunch” was first coined in a 1895 article in the British magazine Hunter’s Weekly, where author Guy Beringer imagined a new, cheerful, and sociable meal to replace heavy post-Sunday service breakfasts. Beringer wrote, “It puts you in a good temper… It sweeps away the worries and cobwebs of the week.”
Brunch gained popularity in America during the 1930s, especially among wealthy train travelers stopping in Chicago for hearty late-morning meals.
Elizabeth Begue, known as Madame Begue, arrived in New Orleans from Bavaria in 1854. She joined her brother, a French Market butcher, and soon married Louis Dutrey, owner of a coffeehouse near the market. Observing the hunger of market workers by midmorning, Elizabeth began serving multi-course, family-style meals at 11 a.m. in a room above the coffeehouse. Her menus, inspired by the market’s bounty, always included an egg course—rare at the time—and wine with every dish. The meal concluded with cheese, fruit, and café noir flamed with cognac…