Gumbo starts with the holy trinity: onions, celery, bell peppers. Then comes the roux, cooked dark brown without burning. Then stock. Then meat or seafood. Then time. New Orleans restaurants split into two camps: Creole gumbo with tomatoes and okra, or Cajun gumbo with dark roux and filé powder. Five places master both approaches without compromise.
Dooky Chase’s Restaurant, 2301 Orleans Avenue, Treme.
Leah Chase made Creole gumbo here for 70 years until she died in 2019. Her daughter-in-law, Stella Chase Reese, runs the kitchen now, using the same recipe. The gumbo z’herbes is vegetarian, made with collard greens, mustard greens, spinach, and at least seven types of greens. Served only on Holy Thursday before Easter, though the restaurant sometimes makes it other times. The regular gumbo uses chicken and sausage in a tomato-based broth with okra. The roux is lighter than Cajun versions, more red-brown than chocolate.
Lunch buffet Tuesday-Friday 11am-3pm. Dinner service limited, call ahead. Closed Saturday-Monday. The restaurant is a civil rights landmark where Black activists met during the 1960s. Phone: (504) 821-0600.
Gumbo Shop, 630 St. Peter Street, French Quarter.
Operating since 1946. They make both Creole and Cajun gumbo daily. The seafood gumbo is Creole-style with shrimp, crab, okra, and tomatoes. The chicken and andouille is Cajun-style with dark roux and filé powder. The roux here is cooked dark, close to burning, which gives it a nutty bitter edge. The gumbo is served over rice in the center of the bowl. Portions are large.
The restaurant has a courtyard and multiple dining rooms. Tourist-heavy but locals still eat here. Open daily 11am-10pm. No reservations for parties under six. Phone: (504) 525-1486.
Herbsaint, 701 St. Charles Avenue, CBD.
Chef Donald Link opened this in 2000. The gumbo here changes seasonally. Winter brings duck and andouille gumbo with dark roux and no okra. Summer features Gulf shrimp and crab. The roux is cooked longer than traditional Cajun gumbos, almost burnt, creating a bitter chocolate flavor that offsets the rich duck fat. Served in smaller portions as a starter, not a main course. The restaurant focuses on refined Creole cuisine with French technique…