A square of lasagna has a funny way of exposing a kitchen. Too dry, and everyone knows it.
Too loose, and it turns into a red-sauce landslide before the second bite. At La Fiamma in Harrison, the version locals talk about seems to hit that rare middle ground: sturdy enough to hold its layers, rich enough to feel like a proper Italian dinner, and comforting without tasting like it was built just to be heavy.
The restaurant sits at 440 Harrison Avenue, close to the steady bustle of Newark, the PATH crowd, and Red Bull Arena traffic, but it still feels like a place Harrison regulars can claim as their own. La Fiamma is not trying to be the loudest Italian restaurant in New Jersey…