It’s hard to ignore the link between newly opened Zola Bar & Tables and 19th-century novelist Émile Zola. There’s the name, of course, but there’s also the floor-to-ceiling photo of the Frenchman eyeballing you when you open the restaurant door. It lets you know: The past is very present here.
One of Zola’s better-known books, The Belly of Paris, leverages the food stalls of Les Halles to reinforce themes of inequality, political division, bourgeoisie complacency and gross materialism. It’s never been more deliciously du jour. Likewise, Zola Bar & Tables, located in the belly of Altamonte Springs, seeks to squeeze present-day relevance from classic themes and comforts. Although Zola the writer looms large, owners Jay and Connie Edge model their restaurant on its other namesake: Zola in Kansas City, a restaurant opened in 1994 by Jay and his late brother, Loy, known for its easy vibe.
It starts with the room, a clubby but spacious expanse of wood and retro flair anchored by a handsome bar; a many-spaces-in-one, primarily no-reservations expanse you’re encouraged by staff (and signage) to make your own. There’s nostalgia at play in the bric-a-brac eclectica, and nostalgia manifests on the menu; a Pebbles 1985 Salad ($18) with sesame sticks and soy vinaigrette plays tasty tribute to the Nutty-Cheesy Salad at Pebbles, an icon of Orlando “casual gourmet” yesteryear. Or how about Oysters Rockefeller, a dish invented in 1889? A dozen of the baked Virginians ($52) fragrant with nutmeg were delicious, the shining star of our meal. If you like simple fish dips, you’ll like the simple trout-based dip ($21) with pickled onion, crudité and chips. Fresh-caught from the distribution pipe but quite good…