At Hardeman’s, barbecue isn’t just food; it’s a continuation of Black culinary traditions shaped by migration, resilience and community.
A shopping strip on Scyene Road houses several restaurants anchored by a vibrant daycare center. The words SOUL FOOD stitched into a banner whip in the breeze on a pole in the parking lot. When stepping through the front door, customers are hit with the aroma of barbecue and an air of nostalgia.
The buffet line forms an L-shape through the dining room. Steam from trays of cabbage, fried okra, rice and tender smothered pork chops fog the clear plastic sneeze guard above the food. Menu boards list staples of Texas barbecue like brisket, ribs, chicken, and bolo, the beloved smoked bologna that has been a fixture in African American kitchens for generations. Above the counter, faded signs list daily specials, including chitlins, a dish now fading from mainstream menus but still holding its place here…