The tortilla is the first thing you need to understand about Molino Olōyō. Not the filling, not the protein, not the salsa. The tortilla. That’s where this whole operation begins, and once you taste one, you’ll understand why chef Olivia López has spent the last five years obsessing over it.
Her corn comes from small family farms across Mexico — Oaxaca, Tlaxcala, the Yucatán. She sources heirloom varieties that most people have never seen: kernels that are pink, purple, deep blue, brown. Each one nixtamalized in-house, soaked in a lime solution the way it’s been done for thousands of years, then run through the mill until it becomes masa. The result is a tortilla with actual flavor — earthy, complex, faintly sweet — and a texture that holds up to whatever gets folded inside it. There’s nothing else like it in Dallas.
That tortilla is about to have a permanent address. Molino Olōyō opens this spring at 4422 Gaston Avenue in East Dallas, taking over the former Cry Wolf space. For the people who’ve been chasing this pop-up around the city for five years, standing in long lines at Wayward Coffee, sliding into DMs to snag a weekend pickup — this is the moment they’ve been waiting for.
The space runs three concepts at once. The fonda is the casual end: street-style food served any day you walk in. The wagyu suadero taco that Texas Monthly named one of the 50 best tacos in the state lives here, along with churros filled with toasted corn ice cream. Come hungry, order two or three, don’t rush it…