At 12:45 p.m. on a snowy Thursday in February, every seat in the Sagra Italia dining room is full. Formerly home to Fifth Frame Brewing, 155 St. Paul St. is nearly unrecognizable, transformed into an airy, chic space somehow reminiscent of both Brooklyn and Rome. There’s a cozy sitting area off to one side and mossy green accent walls with galleries of curated art. A glass case near the checkout counter displays pillowy focaccia with an array of toppings. The concept might be fast-casual counter service, but this is the kind of atmosphere that makes guests want to linger over a plate of pasta, a glass of wine, an espresso.
Sagra Italia is the third venture from the Cavatassi family and “Uncle” Chris Ziogas — following behind Tapas 177 and Event 180. All three businesses are on St. Paul Street, a part of the city that’s often overlooked by diners and nightlife seekers alike. One of those “if you know, you know” destinations. And if the Gen Z Cavatassi generation has anything to say about it, everyone will know. Soon.
To understand how St. Paul Street became a second home for the Cavatassi family requires going back 40 years to 1986, when Demetrio Cavatassi landed his first restaurant job after his freshman year of college. Or even to a little more than 30 years ago, when he was working at Geva Theatre. At the time, the Geva bar was a destination even for those who weren’t seeing a show, and it was there Demetrio met his wife, Gretchen, and started down a path to become one of Rochester’s most respected and quietly successful restaurateurs.
In 1997, he was bartending at a local blues pub called the Rabbit Hole (now Salinger’s). When some of the guests heard Demetrio’s plans to open a place, they said he should talk to Frederic Ponthieu, who had similar goals and was then at The Brasserie (now Max Bar & Bistro at Eastman Place)…