This wine is making a comeback in California — and Clarksburg has plenty

Craig Haarmeyer can sum up chenin blanc, the varietal for which his West Sacramento winery is known, in just four words.

“Chardonnay without training wheels.”

The versatile, affordable white wine is enjoying a resurgence among California winemakers, as well as some tuned-in customers. That’s good news for farmers 20 minutes south of Sacramento in Clarksburg, where chenin blanc has been the keystone grape for decades…

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