With more than 360 miles of beaches , crashing surf, soaring dunes, migrating whales and dramatic sea stacks rising offshore, Oregon ’s coastline is a mecca for nature lovers and adventurers . But as the ocean recedes, a watery wonderland of briny, slimy sea plants and gnarly crustaceans and molluscs emerge, rippling in the rock pools and blanketing the boulders with razor-sharp shells. This coastal emporium displays a smorgasbord of intertidal edibles; seaweeds packed with vitamins and minerals, sustainably grown and subtly seasoned with the saltiness of the sea.
To navigate the Pacific Ocean’s ebb and flow and discover the magical marine realm exposed at low tide, I explore with Alanna Kieffer, the founder of Shifting Tides, who offers foraging tours along the Oregon coast, home to some of the most diverse and abundant coastal ecosystems on the planet. Our afternoon adventure takes place on the wild, driftwood-strewn Indian Beach at Ecola State Park, a protected wilderness which is home to eight miles of the Oregon Coast Trail and swathes of dense, old-growth Sitka spruce forest, roamed by Roosevelt elk.
“ Foraging is not only a way to connect people to this beautiful, nourishing place, but also to the nourishing food it provides,” she says, throwing her collector’s bag over her shoulder and leading me down to the beach. “I started Shifting Tides with sustainability and education in mind. A key focus is how we can keep our environments healthy while feeding the bajillion people on the planet, and looking at how food systems can shift and be sustainable.”
Reaching the tumble of rocks at the end of the beach, I follow Alanna’s rubber-booted steps, as she skillfully scales the slippery slabs, careful not to step on the tightly packed mats of deep-blue mussels and the craggy, claw-like goose barnacles, exposed by the ebbing tide. Taking out her knife, she gently severs sliver of nori and delicate frills of red Pacific dulse, ensuring she leaves the seaweeds’ “holdfast” in place on the rocks, allowing them to regrow, and only taking a little from each patch. Walking back along the shoreline, she scoops up a few shafts of rubbery kelp – the seaweed poster boy of America’s Pacific Northwest…