The smell of freshly baked pastries at La Mexicana Bakery, a panadería at 24th and York streets in the Mission, entices passers-by to come inside, grab a plastic tray and some tongs, and pick out the pastries that catch their eye.
For its loyal, cash-only customers, its smell and flavors of the Mexican panaderías they grew up in keep them returning to the neighborhood institution that has been open for 54 years.
That makes it the oldest panadería on the 24th Street corridor that still has its doors open. La Victoria, which opened in 1951 and would be 75 years old, is now closed…