A New Pop-Up Is the Bay Area’s Tastiest Panamanian Secret

Chiricana serves hard-to-find dishes from Panama with a California twist.

“Let’s get Panamanian food” is a suggestion most Californians aren’t used to hearing. In fact, even the most knowledgeable Bay Area foodies may have never even considered Panamanian cuisine as an option at all.

Chances are, you don’t know a local spot where you can grab sancocho, Panama’s national dish, which consists of a yam-thickened broth with chicken, yuca, corn and otoe (taro root). And you’ve probably never had the pleasure of eating carimañolas (Panamanian beef patties) or almojábanos (fried corn dough and cheese). Until recently, I hadn’t either.

For all of its culinary charms, the Bay has never had much of any Panamanian food scene to speak of. It’s not just the Bay either. Comida Panameña has rarely expanded beyond its own borders into other parts of the world in a noticeable way, and it doesn’t have the same reputation or ubiquity that other diasporic foods from Latin America have been able to cultivate, particularly within California’s diverse foodscape…

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