I’m loving the New Jersey-style tomato pies at Hi Hat in San Francisco, which opened last year in the Mission. A recent slice had no flop, a dappled skirt and a satisfying, audible crunch. The tomato sauce was sweet but acidic, while smoked provolone added nutty sharpness. Every pie gets a shower of salty pecorino romano, which has become a standard move at many new-school pizzerias, and I welcome it.
1432 Valencia St., San Francisco. hihatsf.com
Filipino ilocos empanadas have been dominating my social media feeds, and I recently had my first taste at Mr. Ilocos Empanadas, a home kitchen in Oakland. The half-moons have a thin, crunchy exterior that’s tinted carrot-orange and an interior padded with shredded green papaya, an egg and your choice of crumbled pork or chicken. I enjoyed the cracked black pepper top note in both, and appreciated the accompanying side of white vinegar that cuts through the oiliness. To order, head to its Instagram, where you’ll find a sign-up form.
Mr. Ilocos Empanadas. Check Instagram for full details.
I made it back to Florecita Panaderia, a spunky Mexican microbakery focusing on conchas that has settled into a mixed-use development in the Mission. On my first sampling, I felt that the flavors were understated — not so this time around. The blue corn concha, which adds masa flour to the crisp sugar top, had hints of popcorn, while the sweet bread was notably softer than my last outing. I’m glad I returned because I would rank Florecita as one of the best panderias in the city…