The Santa Barbara Channel is a gateway to many things. Tourists pass through to visit islands surrounded by some of California’s oldest underwater parks. Fishing boats chug past on their way to and from fishing grounds. Large container ships travel by — as many as 10 to 20 per day. And — some of the original school bus-sized inhabitants of the waters — whales also pass through.
On a cold, gloomy day in spring, it was a group of boat passengers navigating the Channel, swaying with the waves as they returned to shore from Anacapa Island. Water dripped from hair and neoprene booties squeaked as some, still wearing wetsuits, walked around the boat after a scuba dive at the marine reserve.
The back of a whale rose out of the water, its fluke rising out of the water before rolling away beneath the waves. Soon, the water around felt alive with whales on all sides. They were lunging, breaching, diving, and feeding on baitfish that made the water ripple and shimmer…