Napa County officials on Wednesday approved a new underground winery near the Sonoma County line, a rare project that planners say will reduce traffic and minimize environmental disruption.
But it comes at a time when many residents are growing wary of expanding wine infrastructure, no matter how discreet.
The project, backed by the French winemaking Tesseron family, calls for a 20,000-gallon-a-year winery built almost entirely beneath the surface of a 43-acre parcel on Wall Road — near the family’s sprawling estate, once owned by the late actor and comedian Robin Williams…