For more than 20 years, Porter Creek Vineyards in Healdsburg held a rare distinction: It was certified as biodynamic, an approach to farming that promotes practices like crop diversity, integrating livestock and homemade compost “teas.”
Biodynamics had captivated Porter Creek winemaker Alex Davis because of its focus on the vineyard as a full ecosystem. The certifying organization, Demeter USA, gave Porter Creek its stamp of approval in 2003. Davis felt proud to show the Demeter logo on his wine bottles, proof that he was farming in the most environmentally conscious way possible.
But last year, Davis dropped his biodynamic certification. While partly a cost-cutting measure during a tough wine economy, it was mostly due to Davis’ growing frustration with the limitations that Demeter places on permissible products, including some organic fertilizers…