Bob Costarella found his calling in a smoke-filled pit in Central Texas. Now he’s bringing that Hill Country sensibility to Sonoma County. But don’t ask for brisket.
A rib man through and through, the Petaluma native has a lock on spice-rubbed, bark-crusted pork and beef ribs that would do a Texan proud. Working out of a Peruvian deli in the heart of Roseland, he’s also got a following for his jalapeño-cheddar sausages, pork belly, peppery chicken and beef cheeks, a tender cut favored by chefs.
Wearing a Stiles Switch BBQ cap, striped apron and gloves, Costarella slices into a glossy hunk of beef cheek — his “baby brisket,” named for its supple texture and deep, meaty richness — and your knees go a little weak. This is red-ringed, smoke-perfumed, unapologetic barbecue that doesn’t require a lick of sauce to justify itself. The sides keep pace…