Everything about Catelli’s, from the exposed brick walls and timeworn wood floors to the smooth stone hearth, feels lived in. Walking through the door is like a hug from a favorite great-aunt: warm, familiar and faintly perfumed with garlic and red wine.
The homey Geyserville restaurant leans into Italian-American classics like 10-layer lasagna, spaghetti with marinara, chicken Parmesan, minestrone and garlic bread. But its soul is pure Sonoma County.
Nearly 90 years have passed since Santi and Virginia Catelli opened their first restaurant in town. They called it the Rex, after a free sign bearing a mysterious name whose origins remain unclear. The Rex endured for more than half a century, later becoming Catelli’s The Rex, before closing in 1991. It was revived in 2010 by the Catellis’ grandchildren, Domenica and Nick.
Chef Domenica Catelli is the restaurant’s public face, and her recipes anchor much of the menu. A private chef to several celebrities, she has appeared on numerous television cooking shows and is a frequent guest on programs hosted by Guy Fieri…