At Old Chicago Pizza in Petaluma, the Cheese Pull Is the Main Event

Behold the cheese pull, social media darling and perennial muse to food stylists everywhere. Lately, it has taken on a near-theatrical life online, with slow-motion reels of molten mozzarella stretched to the limit, flirting with the laws of physics — and culinary decency. In Petaluma, Old Chicago Pizza has become one of Sonoma County’s most enthusiastic enablers of the #cheesepull form.

It’s not hard to see why. Start with a deep-dish pie layered with roughly two pounds of cheese, then bake it for 30 minutes or more until it bubbles and blisters into submission. Joanne Hansen, who owns the restaurant with Audrey Haglund, isn’t about to tinker with a tried-and-true recipe they inherited from the original proprietor, Bill Berliner, known locally as “Chicago Bill.”

“We’re not skimpy on the ingredients,” Hansen said…

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