Weekend beach and surf forecast: September 7 and 8

SAVANNAH, Ga. (WSAV) — Over the past few days a pesky stationary front has filled our sky with clouds and scattered showers. This will continue as we head into the weekend with areas of low pressure providing more rain chances.

In addition to the rain and cloud cover, wind has also been a factor along our coastline. With high pressure centered over the mid-Atlantic, and low-pressure east of the Outer Banks, a tightened pressure gradient formed which funneled strong northeasterly winds into our area. While a solid pulse of short-period wind swell was generated, the strong winds made for challenging surfing conditions due to strong side shore currents.

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SURF-CAST

Short-period wind swell will continue for the next few days as breezy northeasterly winds batter our coastline. This will make for some pretty challenging surf conditions, but if you do not mind the bumpy surf, you will likely find a few fun waves.

How waves form

Waves in the ocean are created by the wind. When the wind blows across the surface of the water, the force of friction transfers its energy to the water, causing the water to move in a circular motion. This movement creates ripples, which can grow into larger waves as long as the wind continues to blow. The size and strength of the waves depend on factors like wind speed, the duration, and the distance over which the wind blows which is also known as fetch.

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