Meet the American who spread global gospel of surfing, Duke Kahanamoku, Hawaii’s original Big Kahuna

Duke Kahanamoku was a real-life American aquaman. “The Father of Surfing” rode the pipeline of popularity he achieved as an Olympic champion to become the soft-spoken savior of Hawaiian heritage foretold in a king’s deathbed prophecy. “The ocean is my temple, the waves my prayers,” Kahanamoku reportedly said, one…

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