In the basement of Court House Square, pork shoulder is simmered in duck fat and aromatics. Chicken livers are whipped with eggs, cream, madeira, juniper and thyme. Beef tongue is brined and molded into, essentially, a cold-cut. The housemade delicacies are assembled on a thrifted porcelain plate with melt-in-your-mouth jambon de Bayonne, Basque salami, high-fat French butter, cornichons, baguette and sel de gris.
This “pretty traditional French charcuterie plate,” according to its maker, Dave Cooper, stars at the chef’s new sandwich shop and “French-ish deli” at 1102 A St. in downtown Tacoma. Not Bad replaces Outpost Sandwiches, which served the city well for eight years until it closed this spring as the owners moved on largely for personal reasons.
The cheeky name riffs on the French “pas mal.”…