The Evergreen State is gorgeous: lush forests, mountain valleys, rugged coasts. Each curve and crease hides a gem waiting to be discovered—and they’re often not too far apart. On a recent afternoon, I set out from Tacoma for an afternoon of exploring, and I met a troll, stood at the bottom of a massive waterfall, and channeled my inner FBI agent over a slice of cherry pie. It was exactly the kind of quirky day trip that highlights all the little surprises there are to uncover in Washington. Here’s what I encountered on my adventure—and you can, too, if you follow my itinerary.
1. Meet Jakob Two Trees – Issaquah
Your first stop of the day is the parking area at Issaquah Community Center, which serves as a trailhead for the Rainier Trail, for a short walk. The Rainier Trail is a 2.5-mile, paved multi-use trail managed by the city of Issaquah. It follows a former rail grade through the valley, so it’s an easy, level hike. You don’t have to do the entire thing—although you could, if you want to: This day trip offers plenty of flexibility. Either way, you’ll find the main attraction for this stop a short walk—less than a quarter of a mile—south of the parking lot.
You’ll round a slight bend and, tucked into a small stand of pines on a rise above the trail, encounter Jakob Two Trees. Jakob is one of Danish artist Thomas Dambo’s famous, whimsical trolls, one of five in the greater Seattle area. Not to be confused with the Fremont Troll, which is a cement sculpture in the heart of the city, Dambo’s trolls are made from recycled or reclaimed wood and materials and are typically tucked into forested areas and parks—like Jakob on the Rainier Trail. Spend some time getting to know Jakob and enjoying the trail, and when you’re ready, mount up for the next stop on our adventure.
2. Feel the Spray of a Waterfall – Fall City
Your next stop is 25 (or so) minutes away at the ever-popular Snoqualmie Falls. We’re not visiting the crowded, developed main viewing area, however (unless you’d like to add it to the itinerary, of course). Instead, we’re passing it by in favor of the lower viewing area and boardwalk. Instead of a madcap tourist trap setting, this spot has the more laid-back feel and natural milieu of a park. The short, easy hike from the parking lot to the viewing platform is less than half-a-mile round trip, and it follows the river’s stunning gorge.
What I love about the perspective from the lower viewing platform is seeing the entire waterfall in a natural setting without the lodge or any of the power plant structures cluttering the vista: While bathing in the ASMR of the waterfall’s roar, you can pretend they’re not even there. That said, don’t expect to have the viewing platform or boardwalk to yourself. While it’s not as mobbed as the main falls area, it’s not a very well-kept secret, either. Last time I visited, it was a Monday afternoon in August, and I had to wait in a short line of selfie-snappers to get the best angle for my photos—but the view was wonderful while I waited!
3. Tuck Into Some Pie and “Damn Fine Coffee” – North Bend
After you’ve treated your eyes and ears, it’s time to treat your taste buds, tummy, and TV nostalgia. Head 15 minutes south of Snoqualmie Falls to downtown North Bend, where you’ll find Twede’s Cafe. Famous for doubling as the “Double R Diner” in the television series Twin Peaks and its cinematic spin-offs, the cafe attracts a steady stream of customers all in search of something: Locals just want to eat; TV nerds are there for the vibe.
I was pretty hungry by the time I got there, so I was looking for a little of both. Kyle MacLachlan’s character in the series, FBI Agent Dale Cooper, famously described the coffee in one of the show’s eateries as “damn fine,” and was depicted enjoying a cup, along with a slice of cherry pie, at the Double R on several occasions. Twede’s picked up the ball and ran with it, declaring itself to be the “Home of Cherry Pie and Damn Fine Coffee.”
I started with the coffee, which was not bad, and a darn good pastrami sandwich, served with a colossal pile of potato chips and a side of coleslaw. Then it was time for my coffee and pie scene. While I was there, slices of almost-exclusively cherry pie were flying out of the kitchen. Although I’d ordered mine at the outset, I still had to wait quite a while for it to come up—and it arrived with whipped cream instead of the a la mode accoutrement I’d requested. The server offered to switch, but it was no big deal, so I declined—and the vibe was complete: cherry pie and damn fine coffee at the Double R.
I would definitely go back to Twede’s—my lunch was great, and you can just tell that they probably serve a stellar breakfast. I would not, however, order the cherry pie again. I’m sure they make delicious pies—but Twede’s slings so much of the cherry that I suspect it’s made with a little less care than some of their other desserts. In fact, I’ve tasted one of Twede’s massive Rice Krispie bars, and it was delicious. But the vibe was definitely right, and I am certainly not complaining: I walked some, met a troll, felt the mist of a 268-foot waterfall on my face, and briefly LARPed Twin Peaks—all in all, a damn fine day in Washington, don’t you think?
What would you add to the itinerary? Be sure to let us know…