When the folks from the Michelin Guide focused their attention on Mexico last year, they found a tiny taqueria in Mexico City that turned out to be a culinary gold mine.
Taqueria El Califa de León had been an institution in the Colonia San Rafael, serving a limited variety of beef tacos wrapped in handmade tortillas.
The small menu that founder/chef Juan Hernández González created when he opened the taqueria in 1968 has remained unchanged under his son, Mario Hernández Alonso…