I must confess something: Not so long ago, I seriously contemplated tattooing “SOUP LIFE” across my knuckles. Though I’d eventually outgrow the impulse, I never outgrew my love of soup. From delicate phở ga to stick-to-your-ribs chowder, soups are delicious gateways to culture, often embodying the sensibilities and techniques that define a regional cuisine. We bring soup to loved ones when they’re ill, rely on them to get us through the tight finances of college and beyond, and crave them as a source of comfort.
Whether it’s your favorite fleece or a nostalgic television series, we reach for certain things in times of stress. A steaming bowl of soup helps us face the challenges ahead. And let’s be honest: things are pretty stressful these days. That’s why it’s my pleasure to share my favorite Portland restaurant with you — Hat Yai. Though it’s best known for its divine Malayu-style curry and fried chicken (I can’t tell you how many “Hat Yai for 2″s I’ve ordered over the years), I believe diners are sleeping on its swoon-worthy oxtail soup.
With two locations in Belmont and Killingsworth, this eatery specializes in the delicious creations of Southern Thailand. Despite meaning to pay their Belmont outpost a visit, I’ve always ended up at Killingsworth. If our moody weather permits, order at the counter and find your seat outside. Often, the line winds well out the door, spilling out onto the sidewalk. Don’t be daunted by the busyness — Hat Yai’s kitchen is inured to these crowds, churning out consistently excellent dishes at eye-watering speeds.
Indoors, the snug space boasts a casual, industrial ambiance. Though the walls are bare and the chairs made of metal, there’s warmth here in spades. A delicious meal at a great price brings out the best in people, and the chatter of happy diners creates a welcoming atmosphere that, rightfully, revolves around the food.
As I’ve said, if you closed your eyes and pointed to something on Hat Yai’s menu, I’d wager you’d still wind up leaving satisfied. Yet, the menu’s soups are its unsung heroes. The dtom som shrimp come served in a sweet-and-sour broth with notes of tamarind and ginger. Though not technically soups, fragrant curries wait to be dribbled over rice. But it’s the oxtail soup that will tempt you away from that famous fried chicken.
Despite being a budget-friendly cut, well-prepared oxtail is easily one of the most decadent ways to eat beef. With a cooking time of up to three hours, the payoff is melt-in-your-mouth tender, richly flavorful meat that lends itself to countless preparations. Hat Yai serves theirs in a sumptuous beef broth infused with tomato, onions, lemongrass, and lime. These bright, floral notes bring a refreshing balance to the hearty soup, creating a dish you’ll find yourself craving time and time again…