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Botto’s BBQ might not have the name recognition of local titans like Podnah’s or Matt’s, but for local barbecue fans, it’s got the cult following of a back-alley video store. Pitmaster Darren Bottinelli has a complicated past: He was released early from prison in 2019, where he was serving a sentence for defrauding HSA accountholders. After serving his time, he went back to barbecue, where he’s maintained a devoted following ever since.
The menu is equal parts inventive and eclectic, with curiosities like cheesy brisket hash ($7.50) and poutine ($11) sharing space with rotating daily specials.
- What not to order is the better question. Don’t fill up on the somewhat perfunctory sides. The real stars of the show are the daily specials, each worthy of individual acclaim. The pastrami brisket ($20) is a brilliant bit of deli fusion, but it’s nigh-impossible to top the smoked prime rib dip ($21).
- The more affordable end of the menu is just as good. The sausage sandwich ($10.50) is one of the most beautiful plates of food to be had for a ten-spot and change. A hefty scallop-cut sausage link sits in a neat ring atop a pillowy bun ladled with your choice of sauce. There are three rotating links to choose from and a number of sauces from across the South. I’ve yet to encounter a bad combo, but the Polish dog plus smoky honey mustard is a narrow frontrunner.
- The turkey sandwich, often overlooked on other menus, is an absolute unit here.
Botto’s slings burgers and brisket out of a charmingly vintage but fairly cramped A-frame at the base of the Ross Island Bridge. The dining room is small and fills up quickly during a rush, so please, please, queue up in the designated area (there are signs)…