Norfolk native Kenneth Anthony started cooking almost 42 years ago and has worked at popular joints such as the former Small’s Smokehouse & Oyster Bar and Belmont House of Smoke in Norfolk.
His dream of owning a restaurant came to fruition in July when he and his business partner, Richard Ruffin Sr., opened Norfolk Smokehouse and Seafood Co. on Shoop Avenue and Tidewater Drive.
All the beef, poultry, and, sometimes vegetables, are smoked and the seafood is sourced locally. The spot also showcases Southern cuisine such as smoked chicken and dumplings, shrimp and grits, and potato salad.
I visited recently and parked in a small lot on Tidewater Drive. The vintage storefront offers takeout in one room and dining in another. The space reminded me of an old-school barroom with its black banquet chairs but it had modern flooring and blue-painted walls. I prepared to wait because the food is made-to-order.
I started with the 1903 Sampler, a turkey wing, beef brisket and lamb with marinated vegetables (sliced red onions and julienne bell peppers). It was supposed to come with toasted French baguettes but I received hush puppies with homemade butter instead. I enjoyed the hush puppies’ corny, crispy exteriors and the soft and warm interiors. All of the meats had the smokiness that I swoon over. The sliced lamb — not “pulled” as described on the menu — reigned supreme. I loved its tenderness and minimal gaminess. I used my fork to tear a piece of turkey and juices oozed out. The flavor profile gave the same deliciousness as the young sheep. The brisket, however, let me down. It was too dry.