Let’s cut to the chase: Noods is very good. So good I suggest you stop reading this and boogie on out to MetroWest. Go on — get.
A skeptic, I see. Allow me to tempt with a superlative: This baller of a strip-maller serves some of the best Thai food I’ve eaten in town. Still here? OK, I get it; a growing number of Orlando’s next-gen Thai restaurants can be counted among our best and any one of them would be the absolute best if transported to the Orlando of yore. Those who remember Tamagotchi will remember the first wave of Thai to grace our shores — the cuisine enjoyed its maiden heyday in the ’90s, our flannel-shirted lives a-drip in sticky Pad Thai. As one who indulged more than most, I can confidently say the current wave is bigger, better and far more fun to surf.
Co-owners Tarny Putt and Fah Ponprapa are riding the crest of Orlando’s Thai renaissance at Noods, their stylish gem of a restaurant in MetroWest. Noods’ tasty sparkle clearly outshines the ho-hum of its suburban setting, drawing savvy diners from across town who know what I now know: This intimate eatery is an exercise in bold and unapologetically authentic flavor, a feast of spot-on staples and delicious surprises. The first surprise is the menu itself, the opposite of dumbed down — it’s smartened up with the seldom seen. You won’t find pig blood jelly on many local menus, and you won’t find it put to better use than in a bowl of pink-noodled ya ten fo ($20), with its tangy fermented red bean broth. It’s one of many standout noodle dishes, including khao soi ($17), a dish I dub a “barometer bite,” as its quality tells you which way a restaurant’s wind blows. One taste of the crispy chicken and egg noodle swimming in intense coconut curry found me blown away. In Thai kitchens, yum is both verb and noun, the mixing and the mix. At Noods, it’s also an exclamatory adjective. The rice noodle and shrimp tom yum ($20) is yum, yum, yummy — a harmony of salty, sweet, sour and spicy…