A gaggle of press armed with cameras and microphones formed outside Smokey Joe’s Bar-B-Que, in South Dallas, this week. Senate candidate James Talarico had invited us there to announce his plans for lowering beef prices to provide relief to Texas barbecue joints. Ending the war in Iran, suspending the federal diesel tax, and fully staffing the USDA were on his list of priorities, but his real reason for being there was the photo op inside.
Countering accusations of being vegan from his opponent Ken Paxton, who nicknamed him “Talafreako,” Talarico sat beneath a BBQ Freak sign with Smokey Joe’s owner, Kris Manning, to share an overflowing tray of smoked meat. He cleaned the meat off a spare rib with his teeth and ate brisket slices with his hands. Smoked sausage, brisket boudin, and Texas Twinkies beckoned while Talarico savored a South Dallas specialty called brakes. Sometimes spelled “breaks,” they are usually the end pieces of meat sliced on the chopping block, but at Smokey Joe’s, Manning smokes the raw trimmings from his rib racks and seasons them liberally with lemon pepper. They’re delicious.
Along with the omnivorous overtones, the message from Talarico was that the high price of beef is making the barbecue business unsustainable. (Paxton has his own plans to combat the issue.) His proposed solutions highlighted that everything is too damn expensive. When barbecue joints close, it’s the beef prices—or more specifically, the brisket prices—that are blamed, but grocery, fuel, and utility bills at home are whittling away at the profitability of every restaurant. The National Restaurant Association has collected data on customer traffic and found that operators reported a net decline during fourteen of the last fifteen months. Diners are staying at home more often.
James Talarico enjoying barbecue with Smokey Joe’s owner, Kris Manning.Photograph by Daniel Vaughn…