Why this bodega-meets-deli in Charlotte is a go-to for Dominican comfort food

“It’s like if a Piggly Wiggly grocery store and bodega in New York City’s Washington Heights neighborhood had a baby.” That’s the only way I could describe Compare Foods Supermarket to my nephew Malachi (or anybody else who expresses interest).

Founded in 1989 by Dominican immigrant Eligio Peña in the village of Freeport on New York’s Long Island, the grocery store chain eventually spread into seven states from Rhode Island to New Jersey and all the way down to North Carolina, where there are eight locations in Charlotte alone.

Which brings me to Compare Foods Supermarket on Milton Road. A Winn-Dixie in its past life, the grocery store is now home to Tony’s Deli, a Dominican “comedor” tucked inside.

Comidas de Republica Dominica

While others shop for packs of “Menudo Bombs,” lavender-scented Fabuloso, Guava-flavored Jarritos, Spongebob Squarepants-themed piñatas, stiff slabs of salty bacoalao, Virgen de Guadalupe devotional candles and slices of tres leches cake, I’m licking my chops legit, real-deal “comidas de Republica Dominica.”…

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