The surprise starts before the first oyster reaches the table. Most travelers passing through this river city expect barbecue or Southern plates, not a downtown seafood restaurant filled with Gulf Coast energy.
The remarkably simple storefront gives little away. Inside, conversations bounce around the casual dining room as chilled oysters and sizzling shells move from the kitchen.
Chargrilled versions arrive with garlic butter and melted cheese, while raw oysters offer a cleaner taste of the sea. The dog-friendly patio becomes popular when the weather is pleasant, and select evenings feature live music outdoors…