\A salty, oaky aroma wafts over the long line outside Wayne’s Smoke Shack on a June Saturday morning. Based on the blissful expressions on the faces of waiting customers, a casual observer might mistake this queue for pilgrims waiting to get baptized.
Once inside, diners scan the list of offerings on the wall hoping the object of their barbecue affection is still available. By noon this day, Wayne’s popular smoked salmon and catfish, smoked pineapple ham and famous sticky toffee pudding were already sold out. Plenty of smoked brisket, ribs, shredded pork shoulder, pork belly and turkey breast are still available: Some days, the “sold out” sign hangs outside before the restaurant closes.
It’s a common occurrence for Wayne’s Smoke Shack to completely sell out of food before closing time. Credit: John Lehndorff
At the counter, Sam Shelnutt takes orders for meat by the pound, deftly hand slicing portions onto a scale under heat lamps. She co-owns the smokehouse with her husband, Wayne Shelnutt, who is pulling food from the smoker…