The menu at Zante, the fine-dining Greek restaurant that opened in Guilderland last month, replacing the 17-year-old Athos, says its octapothi (no translation needed) is grilled. It is, but that’s only the final step, to add char to the edges and crispness to the small ends of tentacles.
According to the head chef, Chris Euripidou, the process starts with a long braise of the octopus, followed by a several-hour marination in Greek balsamic vinegar. Only then does it hit the grill, before landing on the plate atop frisee, finished with a drizzle of olive oil. The tender result is how you want octopus to be, though anyone who has ordered it at enough places knows the rubbery fork-bounce that prompted our hostess to confess a pre-Zante aversion to octapothi. She’s now a convert. The octopus and lamb shank, the latter braised in red wine, honey and tomato, have so far received the most compliments from guests, Euripidou said.
Boasting a handsome interior remodel with neutral tones offset by darker woven backs on comfortable dining chairs and attentive service overseen by general manager Chris Cropsey, Zante is owned by Bob and Alaina Pilarinos. They also own the nearby Capital City Diner and previously owned Ambrosia Diner in Queensbury, which they sold earlier this year to focus attention on their two Western Avenue restaurants. The restaurant is named after the Greek island of Zakynthos, nicknamed Zante, where Bob Pilarinos’ parents were born…