Stepping into Kisser feels like stepping into a close friend’s kitchen. Countless Japanese prints adorn the walls, succulents line the countertops and books and dishes fill the shelves, falling slightly askew. When you enter and take a seat, the kitchen is completely visible, allowing diners to see the chefs in their element, ladling out curry or blowtorching crème brûlée.
Kisser is owned by married couple Leina Horii and Brian Lea, who opened the restaurant’s doors in 2023, paying “homage to the Japanese kissaten — a neighborhood spot serving comfort food where locals can eat, drink and hang out,” according to the eatery’s website. Monday through Friday, the restaurant serves lunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m., and on the weekends, it opens an hour earlier and offers its Japanese breakfast.
For its first two years of business, the restaurant was walk-in only, but countless loyal customers were willing to wait in the queue — often for longer than an hour — to gain entry.
Fortunately, the restaurant began accepting reservations last November, and my family was able to reserve one a week in advance for the less-than-ideal dining hour of 2:15 p.m. The restaurant was still almost full when we entered…