A golden criss-cross pattern appears on the dining room floor of the Red Rocker Inn, shedding the room with a warm glow. As the sun slowly sinks behind Black Mountain, Maggie Willis adjusts silverware and flowers on tables, soaking in the brief time between stillness and the hum of guests arriving to their dinner at Trillium Table. “We call this dream-weaving,” says Chef Ewan Willis, Maggie’s son. “Every night, she literally touches the tables and connects with our guests when they come through the door. It’s one way that we make the magic happen here.” Maggie might remember a special occasion, a birthday, or even a guest’s favorite dish, and remind Ewan of it as he’s planning the weekly menu. “Personalizing the experience to our customers is one part of what makes our work so gratifying,” he says.
While Maggie makes the magic happen front-of-house, Ewan’s entire family is in on the enchanting experience at Trillium Table. His sister, Abby, was the one who told him about the vacant restaurant space at the Red Rocker. His brother-in-law, Daniel, helped with renovations before the restaurant opened last October. Both of Ewan’s sisters assist him and his wife, Hannah, with childcare on nights that they both work at the restaurant. While Ewan describes having family nearby as a gift, he also believes that his close-knit team has had a unique role in making the restaurant become reality. “They’ve known me for my whole life, so they understand the vision of Trillium and what we’re working so hard to create. They get this in a way that no one else can.” Ewan says.
Before opening Trillium Table, Ewan worked in multiple kitchens in and around Asheville. He attributes his knowledge of French technique to his years spent working in restaurants at Biltmore. He learned about the classic simplicity of Italian cuisine and methods during his time at Vinnie’s Italian. And he learned about farm-to-table innovation during his time at Luminosa, where he trained under Chefs Graham House and Sean McMullen. At only 27, Ewan attributes his inspiration to these experiences — and to the mountains. “I grew up in Montreat, Black Mountain, and Old Fort. I’m very loyal to this area because the landscape, the people, and the creativity fuel me in such a way that feels innate to myself.”
These influences have inevitably followed Ewan into his work at Trillium. “At our core, we want to sustainably support the farms around us,” he says. “And our partnerships with local farms have been some of the most gratifying relationships we’ve made.” He works with Asheville Harvest to source herbs and greens. He’s become friends with the folks at Lees One Fortune Farm who supply him with lettuces and Asian pears. And one of his most treasured partnerships is with Red Scout Farms. “They are 1.2 miles down the road from us and we get produce from them multiple times a week. It’s their close proximity that gives us the ability to tell our guests that the produce they’re eating was on the vine no more than two days ago,” he says…