Backbone, a dinner-only New American restaurant tucked into the Montrose pocket of the Glendale foothills, is staking out its role as one of Los Angeles’s most ambitious neighborhood spots. Husband-and-wife chefs Nathan McCall and Karen Yoo, veterans of Sona and Daniel who ran the Los Feliz butcher shop McCall’s Meat & Fish for a decade, are serving seasonally driven plates in a quiet, intimate dining room that feels low-key but very dialed in. Diners and critics are zeroing in on showstopping starters and a seafood-forward focus that comes off as both precise and playfully inventive.
Standout dishes
The headliner is the sea urchin double-decker waffle tower, stacked with uni, nori-honey butter, and yuzu cream, which reviewers have flagged as a must-order. Backbone follows that opening salvo with careful, composed mains like roasted duck breast paired with Japanese sweet potato and black rice, and seasonal agnolotti filled with late-summer corn and early-spring squash, as reported by Eater LA.
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