Review: Three Houston Italian sandwiches put mortadella in the spotlight. Which are worth ordering?

The craze over mortadella — “Italian baloney,” if you will — is one I can get behind.

It’s everywhere. Dressed up on pizzas, stuffed into pastas and most of all, layered in between countless types of bread.

Italian sandwiches bulging with mortadella have been around far longer than anything that goes viral on social media for a hot minute. The pork, finely minced into a paste before it’s steamed, is speckled with fat and often with pistachios. The best versions I’ve tasted have a pleasing, silky texture and just enough saltiness…

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