A team of Mastro’s alumns have created a destination restaurant that treats guests to fine dining in the style of the Golden Age of Hollywood and hospitality.
Chicken and waffles—they’ve been a thing since the 1930s. The sweet-and-salty, soft-and-crispy combo is hard to resist. But waffles and fish? Unexpectedly delicious. At least the dish conjured up by Chef Magellan Moore for Noble Ace restaurant in Laguna Beach certainly is—he pairs a tender, flaky, mild-flavored branzino with a drizzle of citrus butter sauce alongside fried brussels sprouts and a flavor-layered waffle made sweet from roasted corn and spiked with the heat of jalapeno. It’s like cornbread but better—the texture finer and more moist, but with a waffle’s characteristic grids and crispy exterior crunch. The brussels sprouts are slightly blackened, so they carry a toothsome texture and a delightful nutty, caramelized flavor.
All together surprising, yes, like many of the dishes Moore has dreamed up for the menu at this sophisticated—but very approachable—addition to the region’s dining scene. Think elevated comfort food. You’ll find familiar dishes with clever, unexpected twists.
I visited the restaurant three weeks after its opening, and the place was buzzing. The bar scene was spirited, with live music from a pianist and a menu of creative craft cocktails. (The Pink Pony Club is among the winners; more on that in a bit.) A private party filled one corner of the restaurant, while the main dining room accommodated date-night couples, friends gathering for a bite, and families on an evening out. And the service was seamless. On my visit, Michael and Jose guided my culinary journey, making recommendations and offering informed descriptions of each dish.
First came a pair of starters from the Smalls menu—grilled artichoke and shishito peppers. The former arrives halved, its centers dusted with finely shredded Parmesan cheese, which adds a subtle saltiness and umami. Two dipping sauces accompany the choke—a piquant whole-grain mustard and garlic aioli for those who prefer a rich and savory profile, and a roasted lemon ponzu for diners who like light, bright flavors. The shishitos are served with a nice char, teamed with a citrusy tamari-ponzu sauce to complement the peppers’ spicy-smokey flavor…