French fries should not inspire loyalty this fierce and yet this New York spot has managed exactly that without trying particularly hard. The locals show up with the regularity of people returning somewhere that genuinely belongs to them.
The fries are the reason and the fries are extraordinary. Everything else is just a very welcome bonus on top of something already worth the trip.
New York has comfort food worth seeking out at every price point and this humble spot sits at the most unpretentious and most deeply satisfying end of that scale right now…